Wednesday, January 14, 2009

Day 4 - 人间仙境 - Milford Sound

Weather in New Zealand changes dramatically, and is unpredictable; contingent plan is always necessary, and often more than one. It was a bit frustrating at the beginning because we have pretty tight travel schedule. But Lao gong soon talked me through it, as it's one of the characterists of New Zealand. Only after I took easy on the planning side, did I start discovering the different beauty of this place. 人说"浓妆淡抹总相宜", 来形容New Zealand 特贴切 --- 无论是阳光下的灿烂,云雾中的神秘,雨水里的浪漫; 都是风情各异,让人怎么也看不厌.

We are heading to Milford Sound today, also known as the Eighth Wonder of the World. 似乎去世外桃源的路都特长,特难走。由于雪山相隔,从Queenstown出发,开车单程要5个小时,为了晚上赶到Fox Glacier, 我们一早就安排坐小型飞机去Milford Sound。说到纽西兰天气的善变,Milford Sound变化无常的天气又是纽西兰之最。去Milford Sound的飞机听说有一多半的都会因为天气而被取消或改程,而我们要等到飞前的几个小时才会知道。怀着担心的心情,一夜没好睡,清晨5点多就起身查询。虽然此时屋外阳光灿烂,但听说昨天夜里山区里还下了雪, 峡湾那边的天气还是不适合飞行。折中的办法是我们飞到Te Anau,再坐1-2个小时的车去Milford Sound。

Queenstown lies at the outlet to Lake Wakatipu
去Milford的路上,一直阴雨连绵。车窗外,树间交错,山林葱郁;一团团的薄雾飘过,让这画面多了份水墨画般的灵气。 世界这么大,这么美;想想城市里喧杂和烦恼,觉得真是无谓。

Thousands of Russell Lupin flowers create a carpet of color waving gently in the breeze along the Milford Road in Fiordland National Park.


如果按原计划直接飞到峡湾,就会错过这片花海。好像我们生活中无法避免的小波折,与其去难过这些不如意,不如换个角度,去欣赏路边的景色。


Our driver/guide told us a story about the well-known national symbol of New Zealand - Kiwi bird. Although named as a "bird", the kiwi is actually flightless. And probably due to the lack of predators, the kiwi didn't have highly developed protective and defensive adaptations. Kiwis are endangered due to habitat loss and imported animals. The "kiwi tragedy" started with the migration of Europeans. Prior to Europeans coming to New Zealand, the kiwi had enjoyed a secure environment for thousands of years. The Europeans first brought in sheep, but they soon got tired of eating lamb, so they introduced rabbits to the island. Due to the lack of predators, rabbit population started increasing at insane rate that upset the Europeans. And "Smart" humans soon came out a solution; they imported rabbits' predators to this land. However, when these foxes, cats arrived, instead of chasing fast-running rabbits, they discovered thousands of kiwis walking around leisurely, and decided that they are going to have “chicken” instead. (Pardon their ignorance since they had never seen kiwi bird before.) – Another tragedy caused by 人类的自作聪明。

途经一个小镇,名字已经记不得了。司机说大家都叫这个“厕所镇”,因为全镇只有2家人,公共厕所倒是有几十个(给游客用的)。也不知是真是假?!

位于Fiordland National Park中的Milford Sound 形成于上个冰河时代。200万年前,几千米厚的巨大冰川移走后留下幽深的峡谷,灌入海水形成今天的峡湾。峡湾两岸是海拔1200多米的陡峭的岩壁,山上的积雪融化,化成无数条瀑布挂在峭壁上,飞泻下来,直入大海。
轻风拂袂, 飘然欲仙

美得让人窒息的Lake Wakatipu
回到Queenstown, 又要马不停蹄地赶去Fox Glacier, 车程大概330km.
油画般的Lake Hawea
河道转了个弯,Lake Hawea又呈现出另一种宝蓝色
Lake Wanaka
Sunset at the West Coast.

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